Wrapping the Rough Stuff
Friday, June 1, 2012
Practical tips for rough-surface wraps
A number of years ago a few companies wanted to bring out a solution
for applying graphics to streets. I tested a number of products in the
beginning, starting with MACtac StreetRap. Since that time, a number of
companies, including 3M, Arlon and Oracal (to name a few), have begun
offering rough surface wrap products. I have used a few of the products
on many jobs and they work well. I think the biggest issue is the
customer expectations for durability and the installation.
Arlon offers both DPF 6700
and DPF 8000 for rough surface applications. DPF 8000, shown here,
features a special adhesive system designed to stick to low-energy
surfaces such as concrete and brick.
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It is important to note here that installing vinyl graphics onto a
rough or highly irregular surface takes much longer than conventional
applications. If you are doing this type of job, be sure to charge
accordingly for your time. The challenge is to balance the time-driven
success of the graphic against the cost and time to prep and install.
Applying vinyl to a rough vertical surface is a bit different than
working on a horizontal surface, so I will review each separately.
Installing graphic films
onto a rough or unfinished wall can be quite time consuming due to the
amount of time needed to work the vinyl into the irregularities of the
surface. Be sure to charge accordingly. (Image courtesy Lowen Certified
Installers)
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Cleaning a horizontal surface can be more work than a vertical surface
because of the issues caused by foot and vehicle traffic. When you
introduce adhesive to a surface—like a sidewalk or a street (asphalt or
concrete), a tile floor with wide grout, brick or cobble stones,
etc.—you must understand that the adhesive will only adhere well to a
solid surface and must not have anything loose in the way.
For example, in a concrete park area, dirt and sand will inevitably
collect on the surface, and when you apply the adhesive to the surface,
most of the adhesive will grab the loose particles. The result is that
there is not enough solid surface for the adhesive to grab, and the
vinyl will fail because it just cannot stand up against the traffic.
The huge benefit to the horizontal surface is gravity—the vinyl
automatically wants to lay flat on the surface; and each person or
vehicle that moves over the image applies more pressure to it, causing
the adhesive below to grab harder to the surface. Other items that
contribute to failure include gum, grease, food, water, etc. All of
these items will likely cause the vinyl to lift in areas. Bottom line:
Prep the surface well.
I installed this 24’x16’ outdoor concrete floor graphic in front of the stage for an outdoor concert event.
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• It’s a good idea to first pressure wash the areas for the graphic on
the day before the install. Then on the install day—assuming the ground
is dry and still clean—use a leaf blower and blow away all the fine
dust, dirt and sand particles.
• Do not use a wire brush, screwdriver or other sharp implement to
scrape the surface because any damage caused to the pavement will remain
after the graphic is removed and the owners will be upset with you.
• Using a torch or good heat gun, tack down the all edges. When the
vinyl is still hot, use a small foam paint roller to roll down the vinyl
into the rough surface. Heat is very important as this causes the
adhesive to flow and become more aggressive. Plus, the heat causes the
vinyl to become very soft and conformable.
• If you choose to use a squeegee to apply the vinyl, be careful: when
the squeegee encounters small rocks and rough spots, it can cause the
vinyl to rip. Use the squeegee at a very sharp angle (almost flat to the
surface) so as not to catch sharp parts. Follow up with the foam
roller.
• Once all the edges are tacked down you can begin to work on the rest
of the image. Yes, this takes time, but you must do it to insure a
successful installation.
• During removal of the graphic, adhesive residue can be an issue. If
you can, try to remove the vinyl with some heat, 140 degrees is perfect
heat to remove vinyl. In some cases you may still find some adhesive
residue left behind. Use Xylene to remove it.
TPM Graphics in Greenville,
S.C. installed these impressive stadium graphics for the University of
Southern Carolina in 2008 using then newly developed 3M Textured Wall
Film. (Images courtesy of TPM Graphics)
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• When removing graphics from an asphalt surface you might find that
the graphics stuck too well. I have done a few on hot summer days and a
month later I had a very difficult time getting the graphics off the
asphalt. I found that the tar and the adhesive worked together to make a
very strong bond.
Vertical Rough Surfaces
In my opinion rough wall surfaces are more difficult to install than
rough horizontal surfaces, partly because you have to fight gravity, and
also because you don’t have the added compression of foot traffic to
help press it down. In any case, wall prep is very important.
I find that many brick walls can be quite dusty, and it takes a lot of
work to get the dust off the surface; especially if the grout has a 1/4"
groove in which dust has collected.
Here are some practical tips to consider:
• If the wall is outdoors, you can use a gas powered pressure washer or
leaf blower to clean the surface. I find that I must do most of these
jobs at night as the noise from these tools is too much for customers to
deal with.
• For interior walls I like to start cleaning with a stiff brush, then
use a compressor (a high-recovery one like the builders use) with a
vacuum. I blow the wall toward the vacuum end to keep the dust down.
• If the interior wall must be further cleaned, use isopropanol alcohol
on a terrycloth rag. Brick, cinder block, and many other common
interior surfaces are quite porous so you don’t want to use industrial
chemicals to clean on the wall.
• When installing I like to attach the vinyl to the whole wall first by tacking down the edges using heat and foam rollers.
This is a temporary outdoor
concrete stair wrap that was done for an NHRA drag racing event at
Bandimere Speedway in Morrison, Colo.
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• Be careful not to overheat and burn the vinyl.
• You can expect some tenting of the vinyl, and there will be small
areas where the vinyl is not adhering to anything. But if you push the
vinyl too far you will have failure attaching to the surface.
• Be patient. This is going to take you a while. When I install normal
adhesive-backed vinyl on a flat 10' x 20' wall, it takes me about two
hours. But if I am installing the same size graphic to a brick or
cinderblock wall, it will take me between six to eight hours.
If you are using outside installers you can expect to pay a lot more
per square foot for the job. If you do the install yourself, be ready;
this is a difficult job.
Impressive Results
In the end you will be impressed with the job and your customers should
love it. Customers today are looking for something different in their
business, bars, restaurants, and retail stores are embracing this
street/wall wrap solution. Go and sell them on this; the money to be
made is great.
Okay then; good luck, and be smart with your money, and I will see you on the show floor!
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